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Setup OrcaSlicer with your 3D printer over Wi-Fi

OrcaSlicer 2.4.2 · Windows 10 / 11

OrcaSlicer turns a 3D model into the G-code your printer runs. Installing it is a download and a short wizard. The part that trips people up is the last mile — telling the slicer where the printer lives on your network, so you can send a print without carrying a microSD card across the room.

There is also a field in that dialog that almost every guide skips. Miss it and everything appears to work — you can slice, you can print — but the Device tab shows a blank 404 Not Found forever.

The short version. Connect the printer with Browse… in the Physical Printer dialog, then — before clicking OK — fill the Device UI field with your printer’s own web interface: http://<printer-ip>:4408/ on a Creality K-series. That single field is what the Device tab loads, and leaving it blank is why the tab returns 404 even though printing works. The long version, with every screen, is below.

Two parts: install, then connect. If OrcaSlicer is already set up, skip to part two.

Every screenshot below is a real frame from one session, recorded while someone actually did this with Navisual — an assistant that watches the screen and marks the control you need next. The orange marks are Navisual pointing; the strip along the bottom is the instruction it spoke.

A Chrome new-tab page with the address bar ringed in orange, a caption strip along the bottom of the screen reading 'Click the address bar at the top, paste the URL, and press Enter to go to the OrcaSlicer releases page', and the Navisual panel docked down the right-hand side showing the typed question 'how to install and setup Orca slicer for my 3D printer?'.
The session begins. The question is typed into the panel on the right; the ring on the address bar and the caption along the bottom are the answer, drawn straight onto the screen. The URL was already on the clipboard, so this step is paste-and-Enter.
A Chrome new-tab page with the address bar ringed in orange, a caption strip along the bottom of the screen reading 'Click the address bar at the top, paste the URL, and press Enter to go to the OrcaSlicer releases page', and the Navisual panel docked down the right-hand side showing the typed question 'how to install and setup Orca slicer for my 3D printer?'.

Before you start

Part one: install

  1. Download the Windows installer. OrcaSlicer lives on GitHub, not in an app store. Open the releases page and take the newest entry marked Official Release — skip anything labelled Nightly, Beta or Alpha.

    Release notes come first; the downloads are at the bottom under Assets. There are a dozen files and most are not for you — Linux flatpaks, an AppImage, a macOS .dmg, portable zips, a debug build. You want OrcaSlicer_Windows_Installer_..._x64.exe, about 131 MB. Note x64, not arm64, unless you are on an ARM machine.

    The GitHub releases page for OrcaSlicer v2.4.2, scrolled to the Assets section listing twelve downloads. OrcaSlicer_Windows_Installer_V2.4.2_x64.exe is ringed in orange. The Navisual panel is docked down the right-hand side of the screen, showing the typed question and the steps completed so far.
    Twelve near-identical filenames, one right answer. The panel on the right is Navisual, keeping the conversation and the plan; the orange mark is it pointing at the x64 installer.
    The GitHub releases page for OrcaSlicer v2.4.2, scrolled to the Assets section listing twelve downloads. OrcaSlicer_Windows_Installer_V2.4.2_x64.exe is ringed in orange. The Navisual panel is docked down the right-hand side of the screen, showing the typed question and the steps completed so far.
  2. Pick your printer in the setup wizard. Run the installer, click through the licence and install location, then work through the first-run wizard. Only one page changes an outcome: Printer Selection.

    The list is long, grouped by vendor, and opens on whoever is first alphabetically — nowhere near you. Use the search icon in the top left rather than scrolling, tick the box on your printer’s card, and click Next.

    This is what fills in your bed size, nozzle diameter and print profiles. Get it wrong here and every print afterwards is wrong.

    The OrcaSlicer Setup Wizard on the Printer Selection page, showing a grid of printer cards grouped by vendor with CoLiDo at the top. The search icon sits at the top left of the dialog. The Next button at the bottom right is ringed in orange by Navisual.
    Printer Selection opens on whichever vendor is first alphabetically. Use the search icon at the top left rather than scrolling. The orange mark is Navisual pointing at Next.
    The OrcaSlicer Setup Wizard on the Printer Selection page, showing a grid of printer cards grouped by vendor with CoLiDo at the top. The search icon sits at the top left of the dialog. The Next button at the bottom right is ringed in orange by Navisual.
  3. Click Next through the rest. Nothing else needs a decision on a first install. Tick the filament types you actually own — PLA is enough to start, and you can add more later from the Filament dropdown. Leave Stealth Mode off; it only stops OrcaSlicer’s own network calls and does not affect talking to your printer. Leave Install Bambu Network plug-in unticked unless you have a Bambu Lab machine.

    Click Finish, then New Project to land in the workspace, with your printer, nozzle and filament down the left and a build plate sized to your machine.

The question changed here

Worth noting, because it is what the rest of this page came out of. At this point the session stopped being about installing anything. Instead of moving to the next step, the user typed a new question into the panel:

how to connect to my 3D printer using wifi? It is a Creality K2+ and it is turned on.

Navisual kept the screen it was already looking at, rewrote its plan from Install and setup Orca Slicer to Connect Creality K2+ 3D printer to OrcaSlicer over Wi-Fi, and carried on from the same window. Everything below came out of that one sentence.

Part two: connect over Wi-Fi

  1. Open the connection settings from the Wi-Fi icon. In the left rail, the Printer header has a small Wi-Fi icon beside it. That is the entry point, and the first place people get stuck: it is not on the Device tab, which is what the name suggests, and it is not in the File menu. It is a glyph a few pixels wide next to a heading.

    The OrcaSlicer main window with the left rail showing a Creality K2 Plus printer profile. A small Wi-Fi icon sits to the right of the Printer heading, ringed in orange by Navisual.
    The Wi-Fi glyph beside the Printer header. Easy to miss at this size, and the only route into the Physical Printer dialog.
    The OrcaSlicer main window with the left rail showing a Creality K2 Plus printer profile. A small Wi-Fi icon sits to the right of the Printer heading, ringed in orange by Navisual.
  2. Scan the network and select your printer. The Physical Printer dialog opens. For a Creality K-series, set both Host Type and Printer Agent to CrealityPrint.

    You can type the IP by hand if you know it, but Browse… next to Hostname, IP or URL scans the local network and finds it — no trip to the printer’s touchscreen. Click the row for your printer, then the green Use Selected button below the list.

    Write the IP down. Step 6 needs it, and this dialog is the easiest place to read it.

    The Detect Creality K-series printer dialog listing one result: model K2 Plus, hostname K2-2E8A, IP 192.168.0.88. The row is ringed in orange by Navisual, with the green Use Selected button below the list.
    One printer found, with its model, hostname and IP. Selecting the row fills the address into the dialog behind it.
    The Detect Creality K-series printer dialog listing one result: model K2 Plus, hostname K2-2E8A, IP 192.168.0.88. The row is ringed in orange by Navisual, with the green Use Selected button below the list.
  3. Fill in Device UI — the step that prevents the 404. Back in the Physical Printer dialog, Hostname, IP or URL is now filled in and it is tempting to press OK. Do one more thing first.

    The Device UI field is what the Device tab loads. Leave it empty and that tab shows a bare 404 forever. Fill it with your printer’s own web interface — the same IP, on port 4408:

    http://192.168.0.88:4408/
    

    Substitute your own address. API Key / Password and HTTPS CA File stay empty on a standard Creality setup. Save Machine as at the top names this connection in your printer list — worth editing if you run more than one machine. Then click OK.

    The Physical Printer dialog with Host Type and Printer Agent both set to CrealityPrint, the Hostname field showing http://192.168, and the Device UI field filled in with 192.168.0.88:4408.
    Device UI, filled in with the printer's own web interface on port 4408. This one field is the difference between a working Device tab and a permanent 404.
    The Physical Printer dialog with Host Type and Printer Agent both set to CrealityPrint, the Hostname field showing http://192.168, and the Device UI field filled in with 192.168.0.88:4408.
  4. Check the Device tab. Open Device along the top. OrcaSlicer loads the printer’s own interface inside the tab — on a Creality K-series that is fluidd: live bed, nozzle and chamber temperatures, recent jobs with their durations, axis jog controls and a console, without leaving the slicer.

    Slicing a model now gives you a Print button that sends the job over the network instead of writing G-code to a card.

    The OrcaSlicer Device tab showing the fluidd web interface: a Thermals panel with live chamber heater, extruder and heater bed temperatures, a temperature graph, a list of three recent gcode jobs with print durations, and tool jog controls.
    The Device tab doing its job: thermals updating live, recent prints listed, jog controls ready.
    The OrcaSlicer Device tab showing the fluidd web interface: a Thermals panel with live chamber heater, extruder and heater bed temperatures, a temperature graph, a list of three recent gcode jobs with print durations, and tool jog controls.

If the Device tab still shows 404

The OrcaSlicer Device tab showing a blank white page with the heading 404 Not Found.
What an empty Device UI field looks like. The connection is fine; the tab is loading a URL that was never supplied.
The OrcaSlicer Device tab showing a blank white page with the heading 404 Not Found.

In order:

Why this is hard to find

  1. The connection works without it. Fill in the IP and you can slice and send a print. Nothing warns you a second field exists, so guides that end at “Use Selected, OK, done” are not wrong — they are answering a different question.
  2. The failure is silent and in the wrong place. The field you skipped is in the Physical Printer dialog; the symptom appears on a Device tab that looks like a separate feature. Nothing on screen links the two.
  3. The port is hardware-specific and undocumented in the app. OrcaSlicer asks for a URL and offers no hint what yours is. 4408 comes from Creality’s firmware, not from anything in the dialog.

The field also reads as optional. It sits between Hostname, IP or URL and API Key / Password, both of which genuinely are optional on a local network, and it has no asterisk, no placeholder and no tooltip.

How this guide was made

Nothing here was written from memory or rebuilt from a manual. Somebody sat down at a Windows machine and asked one question — “how to install and setup Orca slicer for my 3D printer?” — and Navisual guided them through it one control at a time, drawing a mark on screen and speaking each instruction. The screenshots above are the frames it captured.


Checked on OrcaSlicer 2.4.2 with a Creality K2 Plus on Windows 11 in September 2026. Every screenshot is a real frame from one session, and the orange marks are Navisual pointing at the control named in the step beside them.


Steps like these are easier when something points at the actual control on your screen. Navisual reads what is in front of you and shows you where to click. It never clicks for you.